Curved Sleeve for Male Sports Jacket

If you're using PatternMaker PRO with MD, here's a great place to show off your work or ask questions. All subscribers and non-subscribers are welcome to participate.
kmwhitt
Posts: 9
Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2016 9:10 pm

Curved Sleeve for Male Sports Jacket

Post by kmwhitt » Sat Nov 26, 2016 3:06 am

Hi everyone. I am new to PMPro and this forum as of this morning. After reading the book and manual, I was able to make a few men's jackets as seen in the first attachment. I must say I am impressed at how easy it is to make clothing using PMPro - very glad to have found it.

My request may seem a bit unusual as I am creating these garments to use in a master closet visualization, so instead of an avatar wearing my designs, they will be on clothes hangers and rendered in Vray after export. I am having the most difficult time getting the sleeves to curve in towards the bodice. Every sports jacket I own and those I see online have this bowed sleeve when the jackets are hung - reference images attached. I have tried every sleeve type available in PMPro with no success. I've even tried cheats like placing denser fabric inside the arm openings in the hopes that the sleeves would rest against the bodice. Further, I played around with material settings for hours and still no luck. My hanger is modeled just as in reality - bow and all and placed at the appropriate angle to the floor simulating the weight of the garment. Can someone tell me how to modify a sleeve pattern to get this effect or is there a force in play that I have not thought of? Thanks, Kevin.

PS - I watched Lori's intro to MD6 today also. I am excited about being able to use buttons in my work. Does anyone have any idea when this version will be released to the public?
Attachments
01.jpg
01.jpg (176.26 KiB) Viewed 1523 times
REF_Closet Clothing_11-14-16_Page_7.jpg
REF_Closet Clothing_11-14-16_Page_7.jpg (229.71 KiB) Viewed 1523 times
REF_Closet Clothing_11-14-16_Page_6.jpg
REF_Closet Clothing_11-14-16_Page_6.jpg (218.3 KiB) Viewed 1523 times
REF_Closet Clothing_11-14-16_Page_2.jpg
REF_Closet Clothing_11-14-16_Page_2.jpg (207.82 KiB) Viewed 1523 times

kmwhitt
Posts: 9
Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2016 9:10 pm

Re: Curved Sleeve for Male Sports Jacket

Post by kmwhitt » Sat Nov 26, 2016 3:09 am

Here is that same long coat on the hanger after simulation... Tomorrow I will try adding a couple inches to the armhole drop to see if that has any effect.
Attachments
longcoat_hung.png
longcoat_hung.png (129.72 KiB) Viewed 1522 times

Rosemaryr
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Re: Curved Sleeve for Male Sports Jacket

Post by Rosemaryr » Sat Nov 26, 2016 2:49 pm

I think (and Lori will probably have her own opinion to add), that there are (at least) two adjustments you may want to make.

First, you should try using a 'heavier/thicker' material for the jacket. Real-world jackets, such as those you show in the reference pics, are often two (and sometime three) layers thick; a solid wool on the outside, lighter lining, and often a shaping layer (usually in the torso area). These give a lot of structure to a garment. In your simulation pic, the material is looking a bit too thin/light-weight for a good outerwear jacket style.

Second, I can't quite tell if you are using a sleeve pattern that has an elbow dart or not, but you may want to try that. With a suitably stiffer material, the elbow dart helps with that curved look you want.
Here are some examples:
https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&sit ... rt+pattern

kmwhitt
Posts: 9
Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2016 9:10 pm

Re: Curved Sleeve for Male Sports Jacket

Post by kmwhitt » Sat Nov 26, 2016 4:36 pm

Hi Rosemary -

Thanks for the response. I have been trying thicker fabric today and the sleeves still hang away from the jacket. I studied a jacket from my closet (sorry for the poor pics - time for a new cell phone) and there are no elbow darts. Also, note how the sleeves almost sit in front of the bodice. This seems to have something to do with the way the sleeves are cut, but I can't figure it out how to replicate this. Also attached is my attempt from this morning with thicker fabric, more weight, and a dropped armhole. I also added buttons with more density to this one hoping it would pull the sleeves in - no such luck. Thanks again for your input. I hope I am able to solve this today as it's eating up a lot of my time. Kevin
Attachments
2016-11-26 11.18.10.jpg
2016-11-26 11.18.10.jpg (295.83 KiB) Viewed 1516 times
2016-11-26 11.19.02.jpg
2016-11-26 11.19.02.jpg (313.93 KiB) Viewed 1516 times

kmwhitt
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2016 9:10 pm

Re: Curved Sleeve for Male Sports Jacket

Post by kmwhitt » Sat Nov 26, 2016 4:41 pm

Here's today's try at it...
Attachments
WINDOW.png
WINDOW.png (120.76 KiB) Viewed 1516 times

Rosemaryr
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Re: Curved Sleeve for Male Sports Jacket

Post by Rosemaryr » Sun Nov 27, 2016 5:37 am

It appears to me from the images of the various tweed jackets, that the shoulder pads may be having a major influence in the forward curvature.
From the way that they sit on the hanger, they seem to push the top of the sleeve in that direction.
Have you tried putting in a shoulder pad to test the effect?

kmwhitt
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2016 9:10 pm

Re: Curved Sleeve for Male Sports Jacket

Post by kmwhitt » Sun Nov 27, 2016 1:19 pm

You might have something there. I didn't think about the should pads! At the very least that would explain why the shoulder caps have very few wrinkles.

I played around with it a lot yesterday and it seems the incline of the hanger and the jackets position on the hanger greatly influences the way it drapes. With the hanger rotated 2 degrees and the shoulder seam lines towards the back of the hanger, gets you about 95% of the way there. With a few concealed pins, I was able to get fairly close to what I wanted. I appreciate your help. Thanks again! Kevin

Do you happen to have an estimate of when MD6 will be released to the public? Do you think they're relatively close to a release? I'd really like to use the new button feature before spending the time to make my own.
Attachments
jacket w_ease.png
jacket w_ease.png (125.26 KiB) Viewed 1512 times

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LoriGriffiths
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Re: Curved Sleeve for Male Sports Jacket

Post by LoriGriffiths » Sun Nov 27, 2016 2:48 pm

MD version 6 is the standard now. It was released a few months ago. If you have a subscription, you probably already have it?

It looks as though you are getting very close. Funny that the problem was the hanger! Your material is still a bit thin for a jacket. It shouldn't be collapsing to the hanger at the shoulder points. Wool and other jacket materials are quite stiff.

Apply the Full Grain Leather preset to your fabric and watch the effect. It will really form the jacket. Obviously, this is too stiff, but it will teach you how far you can go by just changing the fabric material.

I have another suggestion. Why not change the shape of the hanger? Put some shoulders on it to help form the jacket. No one will know and it will give you what you need more quickly.

kmwhitt
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2016 9:10 pm

Re: Curved Sleeve for Male Sports Jacket

Post by kmwhitt » Sun Nov 27, 2016 3:10 pm

Hi Lori -

Thanks for the suggestions. I will try them out today.

As per MD6 - I have looked online under my account and the only available download is MD5. Also, when I open MD5.5 there is no notice of an update. I have the annual subscription. Honestly, I find MD's website extremely difficult to maneuver and the customer service is quite poor. I haven't been getting emails from them for months now, so I never get notifications when a new version is online. I have tried addressing this with them to no avail. I'll dig a little deeper in the website today and see if I can find a download link. Nice to know I can get MD6 - maybe...

Kevin

Rosemaryr
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Re: Curved Sleeve for Male Sports Jacket

Post by Rosemaryr » Sun Nov 27, 2016 6:06 pm

They are having a Black Friday sale until Dec. 4
http://www.marvelousdesigner.com/commun ... /News/9610

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