Help with sway back curved spine?

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wetcircuit
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Help with sway back curved spine?

Post by wetcircuit » Sat Oct 07, 2017 6:04 pm

My avatar system has female figures with exaggerated curved spines or "sway back" (I'm not sure if that is a politically correct term). I hit this issue every time I build clothes for them, and I don't think I've solved it the same way twice.

The problem is a horizontal fold of fabric across the center of the back.

Is there a sewing/design fix for this that can keep most of the back fabric intact? Thank you for any advice.
Screen Shot 2017-10-07 at 1.45.21 PM.png
Screen Shot 2017-10-07 at 1.45.21 PM.png (120.78 KiB) Viewed 369 times

Rosemaryr
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Re: Help with sway back curved spine?

Post by Rosemaryr » Sun Oct 08, 2017 12:22 pm

Here are some of tailoring analyses/solutions for the sway-back excess.
https://patternscissorscloth.com/2010/1 ... -analysis/
http://www.fitthat.com/swayback.htm
http://www.cleverthinking99.com/2013/12 ... asics.html

Essentially, the issue results from an excess of material on the vertical: the center back line is too long, and the extra fabric needs to be shortened somehow.

As your garment is a hip-length shirt, the second link seems the closest to the solution you need.

However, do pay attention to the first link, as it also mentions other issues that cause things that *appear* to be sway-back tailoring problems, but aren't. Your example picture may have more of an issue with wide hips, as the excess fold seem to be more on one side than the other and the hemline seems to be a bit higher on that side, indicating that the hip may be causing a ride-up of the garment.

(Edited to correctly reference *which* of the links to look at for which situation... --sorry!)
Last edited by Rosemaryr on Sun Oct 08, 2017 4:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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wetcircuit
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Re: Help with sway back curved spine?

Post by wetcircuit » Sun Oct 08, 2017 2:12 pm

Thank you Rosemaryr! :D

Looks like there are several ways to fix it. Some of these I'd discovered through trial and error (sort of), but much better to understand what is happening.

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