Red Dress Pattern

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solidgold
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Red Dress Pattern

Post by solidgold » Mon Jun 19, 2017 6:10 am

I've been studying this pattern and cannot make out how the corset was made. I see the basic pattern for the corset and they duplicated it and sewed it on top again, but I was wondering how they made the seams and the wrinkles?

Thank you if anyone could help.

Image

Rosemaryr
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Re: Red Dress Pattern

Post by Rosemaryr » Mon Jun 19, 2017 1:44 pm

They most likely used the layer clone function for the corset, as that will automatically sew the two (originally identical) layers together.

Then comes the changes between the two layers. The first, lower layer of the corset is the foundation layer: it acts as the base, and it holds the primary shape. That will remain unchanged from the original pattern.
The second (upper) layer, was probably then extended on the vertical axis, creating the horizontal folds and gathers that you see. [When you sew a longer piece of cloth to a shorter one, in MD the longer piece will gather to fit the length of the shorter one. This can be done by sewing on only one edge, as in making ruffles, or in this case sewing down on all the edges.]

(The gathering on the skirt was most likely due to adding an elastic property to either vertical seamlines or internal line.)

A rule of thumb: When you want folds that run horizontally, then you need an extra amount of material on the vertical axis to provide for it. When you want folds that run vertically, you need an extra amount of material on the horizontal axis to provide for such. And, in either case, you need some way to 'fix' those folds in place: either sewing onto a shorter piece of cloth, or placing a line that has an elastic property.

solidgold
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Joined: Mon Jun 19, 2017 6:05 am

Re: Red Dress Pattern

Post by solidgold » Mon Jun 19, 2017 8:52 pm

Thank you for the reply!

But how would you make the seams that are on the outer edge of the corset and on the very middle of the corset?

For the middle seam do you think it was sewn to another piece of fabric or is it just stitched to the other half of the corset? Or perhaps sculpted in ZBrush?

For the outer edge seam: I don't know how they achieved that without internal lines.

Here's a closer view of the corset.
Image

Rosemaryr
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Re: Red Dress Pattern

Post by Rosemaryr » Tue Jun 20, 2017 2:18 am

Given the pics of the 2D pattern used, I would say that those are actually pattern pieces themselves--those long, thin strips. If those stay at the same length, and the other portions of the corset are lengthened, you get that look.
However, I believe that that particular artist also does use ZBrush for detailing work, so the answer could easily be "both methods"... MD plus ZB.

solidgold
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Re: Red Dress Pattern

Post by solidgold » Tue Jun 20, 2017 4:36 am

Thank you again!

I have one last request. I've been trying to remake this chemise (corset not included) for the past entire day and I cannot get the correct pattern for it. I was wondering if someone could make a pattern for this, especially the top where the frill is. I would really like to know how they added that small seam line (perhaps an internal line?) and the frill. I know for the frill you can sew a large piece to a smaller piece, but that never works for me especially (is there another technique?)

I know this might be a lot of work, but I'd really just like to know how to make something like this, would be really useful for future projects. I do realize that there's was ZBrush involved.

Image

Rosemaryr
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Re: Red Dress Pattern

Post by Rosemaryr » Tue Jun 20, 2017 3:49 pm

That kind of edge would be made by a double line of internal lines, paralleling the edge.

For the pattern for the top try something like this:
Image
or this:
Image

Be sure to make the patterns loose enough and wide enough to make the gathers comfortably fitting. You can also add some (invisible) shoulder straps to hold the top up.

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