Creation of an Indian Dhoti

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Rosemaryr
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Creation of an Indian Dhoti

Post by Rosemaryr » Wed Feb 24, 2016 3:09 am

By request, this is a basic how-to of making an Indian dhoti; a wrapped cloth garment for males.
It is based primarily on instruction videos available online, with some adjustments to the patterns to help in construction issues.

This is NOT by any means the only way to accomplish the task, just an approach that I took. Feel free to change things up as desired.
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Using a basic male avatar, make sure the legs are apart, as cloth will be moving between them during the process. This is called an "A-pose".

I start by making a waistband piece, to hold up the weight of the dhoti's cloth, then freezing it in place. (Note: in this example, I *happened* to re-use a waistband that had a seam on the side. It may be easier to line things up, if the waistband opened directly at the front center.)
I then added a pattern piece to cover the back, and sides, and meet at the front center.

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Re: Creation of an Indian Dhoti

Post by Rosemaryr » Wed Feb 24, 2016 3:13 am

In real-life, a dhoti is formed by a very long, single rectangle of cloth, but for this version, I altered the cloth to give more coverage around the legs, by extending the lower corners and curved the lower hem to do this. You can omit this step if you want to be more authentic. I also planned to make the dhoti in three main pieces, in order to better control the different sections.

I then added a vertical internal line down the center, and applied an Elastic strength to it, to gather it up. This will help in later steps when cloth is being moved between the legs.
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Re: Creation of an Indian Dhoti

Post by Rosemaryr » Wed Feb 24, 2016 3:21 am

Next, I added the first extra section.
This will be attached to the left leg side of the central piece, pleated, and pulled between the legs.

To create the pleating, I first selected the bottom edge of the new section and used the 'Split' menu item to divide it into 11 equal parts. You may do fewer, but use an odd number for the split, in order for the pleating to end up correctly. Each individual pleat takes two parts to make, and you will want one more for the final fold-back.

I created two internal lines, one set to a 0 degree fold, the other to 360 degrees. I lined those up with the points created by the Split command, then did a copy/paste to fill out the rest.

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Re: Creation of an Indian Dhoti

Post by Rosemaryr » Wed Feb 24, 2016 3:30 am

At this point, I knew I needed to do some simulations, but keep the pleated pattern where it was. So, I set the gravity to zero. (Right-click in the 3D window to find the Simulation Property item, find 'Gravity' and set to 0 ....or in the main menu >Preferences>Simulation Properties)
Allow the pleats to start folding up, so you can see which lines produce a 'valley' and which lines produce a 'peak' for the set.

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I then began sewing the pleats together along the bottom. This takes a bit of care, as the sewing line will have to overlap to get them all lined up. Take your time, and zoom in on the pleats in the 3D window, and use your blue 'Picking Point' indicator to tell you where your 'are' between the 3D and 2D windows.

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Re: Creation of an Indian Dhoti

Post by Rosemaryr » Wed Feb 24, 2016 3:32 am

Once the pleats have been sewn across the bottom,
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then run the simulation to pull the sewing together.
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Re: Creation of an Indian Dhoti

Post by Rosemaryr » Wed Feb 24, 2016 3:34 am

Then you will sew the pleated section onto the central section. Again, use the blue "Picking Point' as a reference to be sure that you are connecting the corrent sides together.
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Re: Creation of an Indian Dhoti

Post by Rosemaryr » Wed Feb 24, 2016 3:35 am

Once the two sections are securely sewn together, it's time to pull the cloth between the legs.
I used a pin, to help with the manuevers, and did several stop/starts on the simulation, but if you take it slowly enough, you can do it in one simulation run.

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The intent is to pull the sewn pleats through the legs and up to the back center of the waistband.
At about this time, it may help to reset the gravity back to it's default setting of -9800 in order to get the cloth to settly down a bit more.

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Re: Creation of an Indian Dhoti

Post by Rosemaryr » Wed Feb 24, 2016 3:48 am

When you have pulled the pleated section high enough, you may need to also pull *down* the back sides of the central section to clear the waistband.
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Select the very last section of the pleats, and sew it to the waistband. This may be tricky, but if you watch the 3D window closely you can usually tell when you have the correct section done.
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Re: Creation of an Indian Dhoti

Post by Rosemaryr » Wed Feb 24, 2016 5:30 am

After the pleated section is sewn to the waistband, I take a bit of time to adjust the drape of the cloth, to even the amount of coverage on each leg. I let the sim run, and gently pull the cloth through the back, over to the left side of the avatar.
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Continue the adjustments until the dhoti looks more balanced.
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Re: Creation of an Indian Dhoti

Post by Rosemaryr » Wed Feb 24, 2016 5:35 am

The final piece will be the front pleated drape.
To make this I copy/paste the opposite pleated section, and use the right-click menu to flip it vertically. This will put the sewn edges at the top of the section. If need be, reset that pattern piece to the original flat layout, set the gravity to zero again, and let the pattern piece re-fold itself.
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Then, sew the third section onto the central section.
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